Street Art Tokyo: Koenji F**cking City!

You think there’s no street art in Japan? That no one paints on walls, and the art only exists in galleries? Well, I’ve got news for you – you’re wrong, and it’s time to set the record straight!

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In Japan – especially in Tokyo – you CAN find street art, but it takes more time than in a typical European capital. Unless, of course, you’re lucky enough to have a friend who’s into street art and lives here. Yeah, I was that lucky!

me & Yoshie

Thanks to Street Art Cities community, I met Yoshie – a street art enthusiast and Tokyo local. Yoshie introduced me to an amazing neighborhood full of hidden gems: Koenji. I’d actually been there once before on a previous trip to Japan, but seeing it through Yoshie’s eyes was a totally different experience! This time, I noticed so many details and stories I completely missed last time.

So, let me tell you about this street art adventure!

The City of Art: Koenji

I did some homework and found out that street art started appearing in Koenji around autumn 2016, thanks to the Mural City Project – an initiative by the BnA Hotel Koenji crew initiative.

In its first edition, seven local artists worked on murals along Koenji streets, aiming to transform the neighborhood into a “City of Art”.

mural by Nigamushi Tsuoshi with girl
mural by Nigamushi Tsuyoshi

So, were seven murals enough to change the city? Of course not – it was just the beginning! Koenji has always been full of creative energy, and the BnA initiative was like a spark that ignited something bigger.

Today, you’ll find art all over the neighborhood – from large-scale murals to stickers, stencils, and all kinds of street-level creativity, made by both local and international artists.

Street Art Tour in Tokyo: Koenji

We started our Koenji adventure the classic way – meeting Yoshie at Koenji Station. Even while I was waiting for her, stickers started catching my eye. Tokyo is full of them. It’s the least invasive form of street art, but that doesn’t make it any less valuable. In Japan, the combination of high financial fines and constant CCTV surveillance make creating wild street art a real challenge. That’s why the stickers have become a clever and reasonable way to express yourself.

Anyway, I had a lot of fun hunting for stickers. Most of the artists were new to me – but not to Yoshie! It was amazing to learn more about Asian street artists with her!

Murals in Koenji

We kicked off our street art tour with a mural by Thai artist MUEBON. Although the mural is striking, MUEBON is even more recognizable all over Koenji – and Tokyo in general – thanks to his signature panda (or bird?) stickers and small stencils.

mural by muebon in Japan Tokyo
mural by MUEBON

Not far from MUEBON’s mural, Yoshie showed us a collaboration between two well-known European artists – DOTMASTERS & Pez

pex and dotasteis mural in tokyo
mural by Pez & DOTMASTERS

As we wandered through the streets, we occasionally stumbled upon artworks painted on the shutters of local shops. And here comes a valuable tip: if you’re planning to go street art hunting in Tokyo, start in the early morning! Many of the pieces are painted on the shutters, which get rolled up when shops and restaurants open – meaning you’ll miss them if you go too late!

mural with fox in tokyo
Mural by Mau Mau

Now it’s time to show you my favourite discovery in Koenji – artwork around vending machines! Just look at how the art blends perfectly with the wall and the elements in front of it. It’s so cleverly integrated, you might miss it if you’re not paying attention.

MURAL BY DOTMASTERS IN KOENJI TOKYO
mural by DOTMASTERS

Our next stop was a mural that might be minimalist in size — but definitely not in content. There’s a lot going on in it!

Mural by Martin Whatson

We checked out a few more murals and wrapped things up with lunch at an awesome spot – SUBSTANCE. It was so cool, it totally deserves its own paragraph! You’ll see it below. 😉

if you see Ben Eine’s “S” and the place is called “Substance”, you just know it’s going to be good!

After a delightful lunch, we set off to find Fanakapan’s latest piece – a fresh work neither Yoshie nor I had seen before! And honestly, there’s nothing better than hunting for a mural. It’s a bit like a game of hide-and-seek and the best part is, you often stumble across amazing pieces along the way. That’s exactly what happened to us.

And in the end – we found it: Fanakapan’s newest Mickey Mouse!

fanakapan in Koenji tokyo
Fanakapan in Koenji

Fun fact – it wasn’t just this one Fanakapan’s mural we saw that day. My husband actually stumbled upon another one while heading to the bathroom in the Oimachi area. 

mural by fanakapan in tokyo Japan
Fanakapan in Oimachi

But to finish the Koenji story – Yoshie showed us one more mural, this time by Keeenue, created as a part of the Koenji Mural City Project. 

mural by keeenue in tokyo Koenji
mural by Keeenue

On our way to the train station, we stopped to look at two more murals. I had seen them a year ago but it’s always worth revisiting good art. 

We spent a little over three hours exploring Koenji, lunch included. 

Street Art Koenji: SUBSTANCE

Beyond the streets, art in Koenji also hides… inside the buildings. One such special spot is Substance — a place where every wall comes alive with artwork created by outstanding street artists. The owner, Shinichiro Nakayama, runs this space with true passion. To welcome us, he gifted a copy of Japanese HIDDEN CHAMPION magazine and some “Koenji fucking city!” stickers.

Inside, you can also buy unique merch made in collaboration with the artists — guess who left with a tote bag featuring artwork by DOTMASTERS! And besides the visual treats, Substance serves amazing sandwiches and burgers that perfectly complement the whole experience.

Street Art in Koenji: tricks & tips

Alright, so now you know that Koenji is pretty cool – and need worth a visit. Here are a few practical tips to keep in mind before you go.

Start your adventure in the morning, because a lot of street art is painted on shop shutters. Once the stores open, it all disappears!

Don’t just hunt for big murals – look down, peek into corners and alleyways. Great art doesn’t have to be huge. Keep an eye out for the stickers too – sometimes you’ll spot real gem.

And last but not least: be respectful, and most importantly — just enjoy. 🙂

I’ve visited Koenji twice – the first time I explored it on my own, and the second time I had the chance to walk around with Yoshie. Exploring solo is totally fine, but seeing the neighborhood through local’s eyes and having those conversations made it a truly unforgettable experience. So if you get the chance to explore with a local — go for it!

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See you on the streets!

K.

By the way – I found most of info in the Japanese internet (hello katakana, hiragana, and kanji!), so if you happen to know more – I’d love to hear it!

Sources:

https://tokyocheapo.com/entertainment/art-unexpected-places-tokyo-street-art/ // https://grapeejapan.com/154963 // http://mural-city.com/ // https://www.bna-koenji.com/about-koenji-1#koenji // https://sabukaru.online/articles/graffiti-in-tokyo-exists-you-just-have-to-know-where-to-find-it

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