I have been building up the energy for this article for a long time. At first, I planned to describe all murals in Warsaw. I used to live there and at that time there were not many murals around. However, I found out how much the situation has changed while I was walking in the districts of Warsaw such as Ursynów, Mlociny, or Praga Północ from time to time.
I decided to write about every Warsaw district (where you can find street art, of course) separately. Today we start with Praga Północ. The area, in my opinion, is the most interesting in Warsaw and similar in character to my beloved Lodz – a bit renovated, more raw and real, a bit dangerous, and above all original! Here, as in Lodz, the local community tries to decorate the neighborhood with murals, and also here the murals are losing the battle with time or styrofoam (necessary to prove the condition of the building). So, take a walk with me around the neighborhood!
🗺️ MAP
- The Canoes by Radek Skrzypczyk, Panieńska 3
We start with an elegant mural with canoes which blends beautifully into the green, old neighborhood. Originally, the canoes were a woodcut painted by Wanda Telakowska in 1933. She was a founder of the Institute of Industrial Design, located in Warsaw. In 2018 Radek Skrzypczyk copied her work on this wall.
An interesting thing is that the mural with canoes replaced another, depicting a carrot and peas. Literally – a carrot with peas. Perhaps the residents of this neighborhood don’t like vegetables?
2. Praski Grajek by Mateusz Kołek, Wrzesińska 6
Not far from “The Canoes” you will find “Praga’s Musician”. Warsaw’s streets, since the interwar period, were full of music played by local bands or lone musicians. The songs, which often told true stories about the residents of the capital, over time became known throughout the country. The mural is located on the wall of the new building. It’s nice that the developer decided to advertise to local history.
3. Resistance by Escif, Równa 9
We move deeply into Praga, which is bravely, though increasingly unsuccessfully, defending itself against revitalization*. This process was the pretext for the creation of the mural with a radiator by Spanish muralist Escif. The official title of the mural is “Resistance” (fun fact – you can see these words at one of the gates on Piotrkowska Street in Lodz, which I wrote about HERE, but it has nothing to do with Escif). The artist used the metaphor to express resistance to both gentrification and globalization.
Warsaw’s Praga was one of the centers of resistance during World War II. You can still find bullet holes on some walls today. These buildings survived the Nazi occupation, then the Soviet occupation, and now they have to face a new occupation – capitalism, which, by revitalizing the area, is trying to destroy the old facades and start the process of gentrification. “Resistance” is meant to warm people to resist globalization and survive, just as a large radiator helps to deal with a harsh winter.
Escif, Fundacja Puszka
The work, one of many in the area, was created as part of the Street Art Doping Festival.
*Off-topic: I don’t know if it’s just my impression, but it seems to me that revitalization in Warsaw’s Praga is completely different from in Lodz. In Lodz the revitalization more often consists of restoring a tenement house to its original splendor by checking what color it originally had, trying to restore original interior elements, or rebuilding balconies to match the old ones. In Warsaw, in Praga, it seems to me that revitalization turns every tenement into a loft building. I wonder if it really happens or if it is only in my thoughts. Do we have any lover of Warsaw’s history or just an overall lover of architecture in the room? 🙂
4. Civilisation by Phelgm, Stalowa 47
We move to Stalowa Street, where we find a very detailed mural by British artist Phelgm from 2022. This is the second work by this gentleman. The earlier one – from 2013 – was in a similar style and disappeared along with the tenement. Residents even formed a committee to save the mural. Unfortunately, without success.
Phelgm’s new work also appealed to the community. After finishing the work, the artist concluded that it was the most complex mural he had created so far. Interestingly, Phelgm came to Warsaw with another project. However, after seeing the wall and some thinking, he decided to create a mural based on the design he was still working on. The work on the wall took more than 120 hours. This mural was created as part of the Street Art Doping Festival.
5. Fight Club by Conor Harrington, Środkowa 17
The two men fighting on the wall are part of Fight Club, a series of works by muralist Conor Harrigton that can be found in New York or London. The works are in a similar style, but illustrate different moments of the fight. The mural in Warsaw was created in early July 2015 as part of the Street Art Doping Festival.
6. Moonlight Wolf by M-City, Strzelecka 5
Next to the Fight Club, you’ll find the work of M-City (i.e. Mariusz Waras) also created during the Street Art Doping festival (how awesome is this event!), but 5 years later after its brave neighbors.
If you look closely on the wall, you’ll find a mechanical wolf chasing an off-road car.
7. Loesje, Stalowa 38
It is time for a more textual mural created by Loesje – an international free speech organization. Its charter is to spread creativity, positive criticism, ideas, philosophical pondering, and thoughts on current events by way of short slogans. You can find their slogans on stickers, posters, and murals! Like this one in Warsaw. The slogan on this mural is in Polish, and it means: “The longer you wait for the future, the shorter it is”.
8. Mechanic Dog by Akademia Aktywnego Varsavianisty, Szwedzka 2/4
Slightly hidden, but absolutely to be found, a mural from 2018. It is a collective work of middle and high school students, as part of the Active Varsavianist Academy project. The purpose of the academy was to give young people the opportunity to participate in the revitalization and creation of the capital according to their own ideas. The mural is located on one of the buildings of the Praga steel mill. The location of the mural itself is interesting. The history of the former steel mill dates back to 1878, and it is said that it was the steel mill that started the development of industrial Praga. Nowadays in the buildings of the former steelworks, you can find various artistic studios and an event hall.
9. Goose by Diego Miedo, Brzeska 14A
Do you know this feeling that you think something is so ugly that it’s adorable? I have that with this work. The mural was painted in 2012 just before the European Football Championship in Poland and was created in cooperation between the artist and kids from the local school.
10. Ptak i Kobra by DALeast, Bliska 23
It’s time for the last mural located near the Warszawa Wschodnia train station. It is a mural on the border between Praga Północ and Praga Południe. It was created by an incredibly talented artist from China. Take a closer look at how DALeast painted this mural. Countless ribbons create a large-format masterpiece. Amazement is further conquered by the fact that the mural was created within a day! And yes – this is another work that was created as part of the Street Art Doping Festival.
Use my map. I added the above murals for you: click, click.
That’s enough for today. 🙂
Finally, I would like to share the sites that helped me create this post. Firstly, the website of the Puszka Foundation, where you can find a map with all the art available in the public space of Warsaw. I also recommend checking out the blog of Michał – a resident of Warsaw, who takes amazing photos and talks about alternative Warsaw. I also refer you to the website of the Street Art Doping Festival, although to be honest, it is not the best working website in the world.
bye-bye!
Karolajn
Part of Streets 